Growing up, I never liked tzimmes, the traditional Ashkenazi stew that is usually made from carrots and dried fruits (like prunes or raisins) often combined with other sweet root vegetables like yams. It was just too sweet for me. Some cooks combined the carrot tzimmes with savory elements like beef, but, in my view, that was just confusion.
I chose to go another way, one that’s more balanced among strong flavors than a dish of a single, notable sweet-sour flavor profile. I swapped the carrots out for the deep flavor (and wonderful colors) of beets and deleted the dried fruits. Beets are still a sweet vegetable but with more umami, and I added a hit of acidity and spice from the classic Mexican chile-lime spice blend Tajin. Balsamic vinegar completes the picture.
The resulting dish is a deconstructed stew that is less saucy and more about the glory of the beets. It may not look like tzimmes, but, frankly, that’s a good thing. Cooking the two colors of beets separately ensures the integrity of the colors of both in the final dish.
SPICED RED AND GOLDEN BEET TZIMMES
Serves 4 to 6
For the Balsamic Vinegar Reduction:
- 1 cup balsamic vinegar
- 1 tablespoon Tajin (or other chile-lime-salt blend)
- 1 clove garlic, lightly crushed
For the Red Beets:
- 1 pound red beets (about 4 medium beets), peeled
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons honey
- 3 tablespoons Tajin (or other chile-lime-salt blend)
- 3 tablespoons grapeseed, canola, or another neutral oil
- 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
For the Golden Beets:
- 1 pound golden beets (about 4 medium beets), peeled
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons honey
- 3 tablespoons Tajin (or other chile-lime-salt blend)
- 3 tablespoons grapeseed, canola, or another neutral oil
For the Garnish: Whole parsley leaves
TO MAKE THE BALSAMIC VINEGAR REDUCTION: Put the vinegar and Tajin in a small saucepan and whisk to combine. Add the garlic and cook over medium-low heat until the vinegar has reduced until it coats the back of a spoon, about 7 to 10 minutes. This can be made ahead and refriger-ated until ready to make the recipe.
TO MAKE THE BEETS: Add 2 cups water to each of two medium pots, one for each color beet. Quarter the beets lengthwise, then cut each quarter in half and add them to each pot with the brown sugar, honey, Tajin, and oil. To the red beets, add the 1 tablespoon vinegar. Bring both just to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the beets are tender, about 1 hour. Discard any remaining liquid.
TO SERVE: Divide the red and yellow beets as desired among plates, drizzle with the balsamic vinegar reduction, and garnish with the parsley.
© Modern Kosher by Michael Aaron Gardiner, Rizzoli New York, 2020. Photography © Sam Wells. Select press images will be made available, but no image may be used, in print or electronically, without written consent from the publisher. Serial rights are available; please contact Ron Longe at (917) 312 – 5571or rlonge@rizzoliusa.com
Michael Aaron Gardiner is an award-winning weekly food writer (2018 San Diego Press Club Award; 2019 Society of Professional Journalists Award) for the San Diego CityBeat and contributor to the San Diego Union-Tribune. He writes the San Diego Food and Travel blog sdfoodtravel.com and cohosts The Art of Spooning podcast on the Specialty Produce Network. Gardiner also practices business law and litigation in San Diego.